Hunting, Part 4: Dress for Success

In Part 3, we talked about what gun to use.

Now it's time to get dressed. How you dress is going to depend not only on where you are hunting and the forecast, but the style of hunting you prefer.

Most of my hunting is done in November or December, in upstate New York, where highs average around 30-35F and lows in the single digits are not unheard of. It's quite possible to get up in the morning and head out in a hard frost or light snow at 20F, and by lunchtime be sitting in the sunshine and 45-50F.

Key word #1: Layers. Lots of light- and mid-weight layers insulate better than one big heavy jacket, as well as allowing easy adjustment to changing weather conditions.

Key word #2: Wool. I'll freely admit that there are lots of amazing synthetics out there now. In fact, I use them extensively. However, for durability, comfort, and insulation even when wet, wool is king. Avoid cotton at all costs. It doesn't wick, it doesn't breathe, and it doesn't insulate the instant it gets wet.

How many layers you need is up to you. If you're a still-hunter (stalking from tree to tree) or spot-stalk hunter, you'll be doing a lot of walking, and fewer layers are necessary. If you're hunting from a blind or stand, the cold seeps into your bones faster than you can imagine. I always go by the simple rule:

You can always take a layer off, but you can't put on what you don't have with you.

When I dress for an average day in the woods, my list looks something like this:
Poly-blend underwear
Underarmor Cold Gear leggings
Poly-blend longjohns
Lightweight wool leggings
Winter-weight BDU pants (treat the lower half with Camp-Dry to keep your legs dry)

Underarmor Cold Gear mock turtleneck
Heavy sweatshirt
Light flannel shirt (violating my own rule about cotton)
Some combination of a three-way coat
Orange "brush" camo vest

Underarmor hood
Fleece and/or wool watch cap
Glomitts (similar to these)

Poly sock liners
1-3 pairs of wool socks
LL Bean Maine Hunting Shoe

All of this can, of course, be adjusted to your own climate and preferences. If you're going to spend a long time in your stand, you might consider swapping the Bean boots for some kind of pac-boot (heavily insulated mickey-mouse boots - Danner Pronghorns or similar). If it's extra cold, I will cheerfully put on a set of insulated overalls on top of everything else. Chemical heat-packs are a staple, get purchased in ten-packs, and used liberally.

If rain is a part of your hunting weather, it's well worth investing in a good set of Goretex rain gear. Deer will move in almost any weather, and if you're out there when they are, you're the one filling your freezer.

What camo pattern do I use? Might as well throw a dart at a board. I have jungle camo, Mossy Oak, RealTree, and probably a few others that aren't officially named. It really doesn't matter what you use. Deer are colorblind; hence the reason we can (and should) wear safety orange without spooking them. The pattern you wear doesn't matter, so long as it's moderately irregular and breaks up your outline a bit.

Side note: If you're hunting truly cold weather, at some point you will end up looking like the Sta-Puft marshmallow man. Trust me: the deer don't care. The warmer you are, the more comfortable you are, and the longer you can spend in the field. The longer you're in the field, the better your chance of spotting and taking that monster buck you've been looking for.

Hunting, Part 3: The Gun

In part 2, we discussed getting your license.

Alright, you've got your hunting license. For the sake of argument, we'll presume you intend to hunt deer, since that is probably the most-pursued game in North America, and we'll assume you're going to be hunting with a firearm.

How do you choose what gun to use? The very first bit to consider is what is legal where you intend to hunt. In New York, there is an odd mix of legal tools for hunting, based upon what county you are hunting in. Aside from a few small (metropolitan) areas that are bow-only, shotguns, handguns, muzzleloaders, and bows are legal everywhere in the state. The less-densely-populated counties also allow rifles.

As an all-purpose gun, it's VERY tough to beat a solid pump shotgun. It is legal statewide and can be used for every animal that's legal to hunt, simply by changing the shells you're loading. Small game? Load up a #6 shell. Turkey? #4s. Ducks? #2 steel. Geese? BB steel. Coyotes? #4 buckshot. Deer? Foster slugs, or even swap to a rifled barrel and shoot sabot slugs. If you can only afford one gun for hunting, my hands-down recommendation would be either a Mossberg 500 or Remington 870. 12ga or 20ga doesn't matter; either one will handle any game in New York with aplomb.

If you're a rifle hunter, the options are almost limitless. New York states that ANY centerfire rifle is legal for the hunting of large game. While that does include things like the .17 Remington and .218 Bee, those aren't exactly ethical choices. A hunter is responsible for the cleanest, most humane kill possible. Using an appropriate caliber is one of the best ways to do that.

Don't compensate for poor marksmanship by using a larger caliber. Get something you can shoot well, and practice with it. Know your limits. A gut-shot deer will go just as far whether it's shot with a .243 Winchester or a .338 Lapua Magnum; the LapMag will just destroy a lot more meat on the way through. In my opinion, the .243 is the minimum ethical caliber for whitetails. It's a mild-recoiling, accurate round, and premium hunting loads are readily available. In states where it's legal for youth to hunt large game with a firearm, the .243 is widely considered a great "first deer gun".

Want bigger? .30-30 Winchester, .270 Winchester, and .30-06 Springfield are perhaps the best-selling hunting rounds in North America. If you wander into a general store in Smalltown, USA and need a box of hunting ammo, you're likely to find at least one of these three. The .30-30 in a lever-action carbine is a wonderful woods and brush gun; it's light, fast handling, and accurate. Its downfall is the long shot; the maximum point-blank range* of a .30-30 is about 200 yards.

The difference between the .270 and .30-06 is small. They are both powerful cartridges (in fact, the .270 is based on the same case as the .30-06) and capable of handling nearly any game in North America. Both have a maximum point-blank range of about 300yd, and both can be effective well beyond that distance when used by an experienced hunter. Which is the better cartridge? That's entirely up to you. Try asking that question at deer camp some time, but be prepared to argue about nothing else for the rest of the night. (Personally, I use a .270 with 130gr bullets.)

There are plenty of folks who hunt successfully with even more powerful rifles. Things like the 7mm RemMag, .300 WinMag, .338, and on and on. They absolutely work. I think they're overkill for whitetail. For things like elk, caribou, or brown bears - by all means, use a larger cartridge. Just practice with it and learn not to flinch.

Back to the shotgun. Slugs (a big-ass bullet) fall into two categories: "foster" slugs and sabot slugs. Foster slugs are one step above a musket ball; they are big chunks of lead with horrible ballistics and mediocre accuracy. From a smooth barrel (as most shotguns are), a 4" group at 50 yards is pretty normal. Given that the vital area of a deer is 6-8" in diameter, a shot much beyond 75 yards is questionable. Inside that range, however, a foster slug is absolutely devastating. If you expect to be shooting further, it's time to upgrade to a rifled barrel and sabot slugs.

Sabot slugs wrap the slug in a plastic wad that is discarded shortly after leaving the barrel. This wad engages the barrel's rifling and imparts the spin to the slug. Much like throwing a football, the spiral allows for much great accuracy, and sabots are often more aerodynamic than foster slugs in order to extend their range. A properly sighted-in rifled barrel on a shotgun can print a 2" group at 100 yards, but the ballistics of the slug effectively limit the sabots to 150-200 yards.

So, to recap:
One gun hunting: Shotgun.
Rifle for large game: .243 to .30-06, take your pick.
Rifle for larger game: Go magnum.

* Maximum Point-Blank Range is defined as the farthest distance at which a dead-on hold keeps the entire ballistic path inside a given radius. The radius is usually on the order of 3-4", as the vital area of a deer is about 7-8" in diameter. A MPBR of 200 yards, for instance, means that if you hold your sights dead-on at that range, the bullet will be no more than 4" above or below the line of aim all the way to the point of impact.

Got gas?

When we bought the house last summer, the previous owner had propane delivered (by AmeriGas) before closing, so we could test all the appliances. It was two 100lb cylinders. When we closed, I did some calling around for prices and found that the company that he'd gotten those from (AmeriGas) had the best pricing, thanks to a "new customer" special. They were about $1/gal lower than anyone else in the area.

We kept those tanks, paid for what was in them, and chose to go to a will-call delivery arrangement. The lady I spoke to (at the local AmeriGas office) wanted to know how I'd know when the tanks were empty, since there was no gauge on the tanks. I told her I'd just heft them, and when they were getting low, I'd call for a fill.

Six months later, just before Christmas, I was woken up by a backup alarm. I looked out the window to see an AmeriGas truck backing in. I scrambled into my clothes and got outside as the driver was unreeling the hose. I asked if I could help him, and he said, "No, just topping off your tanks." I said something brilliant like, "Excuse me? I didn't call for a fill."

He apologized and rolled the hose back up, and promised to talk to the office and make sure we were tabbed as a will-call. This should have been my first warning sign.

Two months later, the tanks were getting towards empty, so I called AmeriGas for a fillup. They arrived in due course and filled the tanks... to the tune of $4.40/gal, more than a dollar OVER market rate (at the time, about $3.20/gal), because we are a "low volume customer" (cooking and clothes dryer only). I paid the bill and swore that as soon as the tanks were empty, we were switching suppliers.

Last week I stopped at a local family-owned shop (begins with an "E", if you're in my area) and talked with the woman at the counter. I explained what had happened, and she showed me their pricing schedule after expressing proper disbelief and outrage. The local company doesn't do a penalty for low-volume usage; rather they provide a discount for higher-volume usage. I set up a delivery appointment for today.

The delivery guy showed up at the expected time (according to the woman who set the appointment, "after 1, probably 2 or 2:30" - he was here shortly after 2), disconnected my old tanks and set them aside, wrestled in a mostly-empty 100-gallon tank (roughly doubling our capacity), did the pressure check and got appropriate numbers, and went on his way.

After he left, I called AmeriGas to collect their tanks. The lady I spoke to asked why I was canceling. I explained that I had been charged a low-volume penalty at my last fill, and I had found a different supplier who didn't have that kind of business practice. She feigned ignorance, asking what I meant. I told her that I was unwilling to pay more than a dollar markup above market price just because I didn't use as much as other customers.

The very next thing she said? "Well, you should have called, we could have locked you in at a lower price, we're trying to get all our low-volume customers locked in around $2.70 or $2.80."

I kept my temper and said, "That's just the point. I shouldn't have to call to haggle or lock in a price just because I'm a low-volume user. You charged me well over market rate, and you lost a customer because of it."

Her tone changed from apologetic-sweet to "bitch" in an instant. "Well, that's fine. Someone will come collect the tanks soon."

No sooner had I gotten off the phone with her than I heard another backup alarm in the driveway. The local company's delivery truck; here to top off the 100gal tank. 84.5gal later, we've got enough propane to comfortably last us until next fall, and enough that we could add a gas log without changing tanks. (If we so desired.)

Long term, I'd love to put in a buried 500- or 1000-gallon tank and a permanent-set propane generator - but that's not in the near future.

So, AmeriGas, take this lesson to heart: capitalism is a bitch, gouging your customers loses you customers, and bloggers talk.

Edited to add:
Caught this little gem in the SiteMeter stats this morning:

Hunting, Part 2: The License

In Part 1, we discussed hunter education.

Now that you've got that slip of paper in your hot little hand, it's time to go get your license. Hunting licenses can be purchased at any number of places. In New York, they can be ordered by mail or phone, bought at Walmart, Dick's, Kmart, most gun shops, archery shops, bait'n'tackles, some gas stations, and most town or county clerks' offices. The price is the same regardless of where you buy the license.

Here in New York, the options for a license are bewildering. Here's the current list. In Weer'd's case, being a Massachusetts resident, he'd have to purchase a non-resident license in NY. If he wanted to hunt only small game, that'd run him $85 for the hunting year (October 1 - September 30). Small and big game is $140. Entering the lottery for a Deer Management Permit (commonly called a "doe tag") is another $10. A turkey permit (two spring and two fall birds) is $50. A bear tag would be another $50.

If you're a resident, the option that makes the most sense is the "Sportsman" license. It includes small and big game and fishing for $47. Resident turkey tags are $10, the DMP lottery is $10, and so forth.

If hunting is something you expect to be a long-term sport (as it is for me), it does make sense to spend the money for a lifetime license. They raised the price of these last year, from $650ish to $765. A lifetime bow or lifetime muzzleloader license is another $235. MrsZ gifted me with all three over the last couple years; they will more than pay for themselves over the course of my life.

Assuming you did purchase a "Resident Sportsman" license and added turkey tags and DMP lottery, what are you getting for your $67? A good deal, actually. You'll get a long strip of tags, including:
- a "regular season" deer tag, which allows you to take an antlered deer almost anywhere in the state
- a bear tag
- four turkey tags; two each for spring and fall season
- a small game license, which includes furbearers and waterfowl
- a freshwater fishing license
- a chance at up to two doe tags, which are valid in specific regions you select at the time you purchase your license
- a back tag for your jacket

Sign your license on the back and put it in your wallet.

If you intend to hunt waterfowl (ducks or geese), stop by your post office on the way home and purchase a "duck stamp" for $15. Sign it and stick it on the back of your license, then register for the federal "Harvest Information Program". Write that number on the FRONT of your hunting license. Not having proof of registration is a Bad Thing if the DEC Police stop you.

That's it! You're now legal to hunt!

Hunting, Part 1: Hunter Education

Weer'd asked for a primer on hunting, and that's a tough request. Rattling off equipment is easy. Telling someone to hunt the wind is fine. Talking about following a blood trail is simple. Explaining shot placement is basic anatomy.

Actually doing these things in the real world? That's a whole new ball game, but I'll give it a go. This would be a HUGE post if I tried to write it all at one go, so I'll try to break it into manageable chunks over the next few days.

I'll also preface this entire series with a disclaimer: I've been hunting for about six years. I'm far from an expert, but those six years have accounted for, quite literally, hundreds of days and thousands of hours in the woods and fields. I'll write what I know, and tell you what I think.

First off: every state has a wildlife department. The exact name varies from state to state. Department of Environmental Conservation, Department of Natural Resources, Fish and Game Commission, Fish and Wildlife Commission, and so forth. In New York, it's the first, usually referred to as "DEC" or "EnCon". (Also known as the Possum Cops or Twig Pigs, but you better smile when you say that, pardner.) I'll be using DEC in this, for the sake of brevity.

The first place you need to start is with a Hunter Education course. As far as I know every state in the Union offers these, usually free of charge. (They are free in NY; if someone tries to charge you for one, call the DEC and report it.) To find one, contact your local DEC office or check their web site. Many sporting goods or gun stores will keep a bulletin board up with upcoming classes; keep an eye on those as well.

Usually running about 10 hours, they will cover basic hunter safety. Not simply gun safety, but safety in tree stands, when hunting with partners, walking, a bit of technique, ethics, etc. They'll cover laws regarding hunting, property rights, and so forth. Make sure you thank your instructor, since they are volunteers. They're trying to pass on their own love of the outdoors and foster another generation of sportsmen.

When you finish your hunter safety class, you'll get a small piece of paper showing that you passed. SAVE THIS PAPER. To my knowledge, there is national reciprocity for hunter education, but you must have that piece of paper to prove you took the class; a hunting license from another state is not sufficient proof.

Now, it's time to go get your license...